Footwear was maximised for AW24. Extra tall thigh-high boots were a major trend for men and women, seen at Gucci, Ferragamo and Roberto Cavalli. Decorative shoes were also front and centre, like the feathered styles at Ferragamo that would only be suitable for hopping in and out of a taxi.
New talents break the mould
On the final day of Milan Fashion Week, there was an injection of new blood, which provided some much-needed excitement. London-based designer Feben made her Milan debut, supported by Dolce & Gabbana (part of its “supported by Dolce & Gabbana” initiative, launched in 2022). Dolce & Gabbana also helped Feben secure an all-star cast, including supermodel Ashley Graham, Vivienne Westwood’s granddaughter Cora Corré and rising star Dalton Dubois. This is the fifth time the house has sponsored an emerging talent to show in Milan, lending their atelier, production support and venue. Previous recipients include Miss Sohee, Matty Bovan, Tomo Koizumi and Karoline Vitto.
Avavav provided us once again with a viral show, and this time, the collection was inspired by internet trolls. The audience (and some strategically placed team members) were encouraged to throw rubbish at the models as they walked the runway — from empty cans to ketchup and eggs. At first, people were apprehensive to partake, but soon, the whole room was full of flying rubbish. “People trash my collections online anyway, so why not?” designer Beate Karlsson said backstage. As models came out, screens on either side of them played negative online comments the designer has received since launching her brand in 2021. During her bow, Karlsson herself took a cream pie to the face, thrown by Avavav CEO Johanna Blom’s husband.
London-based designer and artist Michaela Stark launched her new lingerie label Panty with a show at Fondazione Sozzani. Provocative label Sunnei stayed true to form with another conceptual show designed to go viral. This time around, as the models walked, an audio of their thoughts played out as if the audience were reading their minds. “Slay, slay, huh, huh, slay, slay,” resounded through the space as one model strutted. Another walked slowly, stone-faced. His internal monologue? “I need to pee. It’s the last show of the day, and I haven’t peed for hours.” At the finale, the models all reclined on the runway’s patterned carpet. As editors looked closer, it became clear that the models’ looks corresponded exactly with the patterns on the floor.
Save for some bolder moves at Diesel and Marni, it was the emerging names that brought variation and flavour to Milan Fashion Week this season. And as the week drew to a close, industry figures have bemoaned the similarities between the major collections. “Every show in Milan looks identical,” wrote fashion critic Osama Chabbi on Instagram. “Fashion’s democratisation had several perks, but the uniformisation of the creative landscape was one of the top risks of increasing access — womenswear is definitely more impacted.”
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